I haven’t been very inspired to write for the past month or
so, as there has been a lot of drama and negativity amongst the volunteers here
that I don’t really want to go into. I had a couple of really nice visits to
some national parks, saw dancing lemurs and the world’s smallest chameleon, and
now I’m in Ambovombe, an incredibly poor town in the far south of
Madagascar. I had to get here by way of
Fort Dauphin, which I expected to be relatively large given that it’s got the
only airport in the region, but instead I found a ghost town with what looked
like long-abandoned buildings. Given the general deterioration of the situation
here in Madagascar, partly because that’s the way it always is and partly
because of the “transitional government” (the DJ president who gained power via
coup d’etat 3 years ago), there has also been increasing violence in the
region. Just last week a band of thieves attacked and murdered people outside of
Ambovombe in order to steal their zebu (cows), and it’s not safe to walk
outside the main streets during the day or anywhere after dark, which unfortunately
starts at 6pm.
But even more striking is the poverty I’ve found in
Ambovombe. The region is dry and windswept, the landscape covered in cactus.
The town itself is the capital of the region, with about 40,000 people living
in it, although it mainly comprises one long, dusty street with some smaller
streets off to the side. The big problem here, which has been a problem for
decades, is that there is no water. They have dug some wells but they have to
go incredibly deep to find water and they keep drying up. They cart in water
from these wells via zebu-drawn cart, and people have to buy it, and it’s expensive.
As a result of this there has been widespread famine, and various well-known NGOs (you can guess who they are) have been
here at various times or continuously through the last several decades trying
to help. As one long-term volunteer put it to me, “I think the best answer
for the food and water problems here is for everyone to just move somewhere
else.”
One large NGO is handing out PlumpyNut, a nut-based protein and
vitamin concoction that is designed for severely malnourished children, and
various other groups are giving out rice, cassava and other staple foods.
Unfortunately what has happened is that anything given to moms for their
malnourished kids – including food and hygiene products like soap – is instead
sold on the street to buy cassava for the fathers, with only leftovers going to
the kids. Despite being educated that malnutrition leads to disease and death
in children, the mothers feel compelled, for reasons I don’t entirely
understand, to put the fathers first, even if it means their children suffer. Various
explanations have been offered to me by locals, for example that people here
are short-sighted and unable to see beyond the right now that their child is currently
alive, or that elders are held in esteem while children are considered little
more than a nuisance, or even that husbands beat their wives if they are not
fed first, but I am having trouble wrapping my head around the fact that the
maternal instinct does not outweigh all of those cultural factors. And in
truth, though I have come here to try to figure out how the NGO I’m working
with can contribute to the fight against malnutrition, it is difficult for me
to see how I can convince mothers to care about their own children’s welfare if
they don’t do so already.
The solution I’ve arrived at is something akin to “directly
observed therapy” like we use for TB patients, wherein we would give the kids
PlumpyNut but they would have to eat it in front of us rather than take it home
where it could be sold instead. Maybe a few better-nourished kids would be
enough eventually to break the cycle and show people it doesn’t have to be this
way. However, this solution is extremely labor intensive, and moreover it
starkly emphasizes the fact that we are forcing something on these people that
they do not want. Even if the thing we are forcing is nutrition for children,
it starts to walk a line where you begin to question who has the right to tell
other people what to do, and why I, as a white person, think I have the right
to tell an African mother how to raise her children.
I just finished reading The Bottom Billion, by Paul
Collier, a book you should read if you haven’t already. Madagascar is solidly
among those bottom billion, which are a group of about 60 countries that, while
you may think of them as part of the “developing world,” in reality are not
developing at all, but for various reasons are just stagnant. The author tells
a story about how the former president of Madagascar, unhappy at having lost an
election, decided to blockade a port that was the main source of growth and
jobs for his country, in hopes of blackmailing his way back into the presidency.
After 8 months and the loss of more than 250,000 jobs, he finally gave up, but
by then the foreign companies who had been using the port had been scared off. Collier
quotes one company’s manager as saying “If it’s like that, then count us out.
We’ll stick to Asia.”
This president’s short-sightedness and selfishness are
pretty typical of what I’m seeing here on a day to day basis. These people seem
determined to work against their own best interests no matter how hard anyone
tries to show them another way is possible. At some point you start to wonder
if it would be better to go to a country where they are interested in learning,
collaborating and bettering themselves, and to come back to Madagascar when
they’ve developed enough to want that, too. One of the major arguments made in The
Bottom Billion is that aid to these countries is most effective when timed
with movements within a country, such as just after a major conflict, when the
people are looking to make changes and improvements. But of course, it’s not so
easy to turn your back on a country with such obvious need while you are
waiting for them to revolt.
So what’s the answer? Do we force feed the kids and hope
that eventually they see the positive effects of good nutrition and want to
continue it on their own? Do we throw in the towel and go somewhere where our
efforts are appreciated and welcomed in hopes that with cooperation from local
people we can make a bigger difference? Do we keep on walking the middle ground,
making ourselves feel better by handing out PlumpyNut to malnourished children
and ignoring the fact that it’s not actually reaching the children at all? I
don’t feel right about the last option, although this is what the major NGOs
are doing and it certainly avoids any moral dilemmas about forcing our views
onto unwilling people. Of the first two, I don’t know that there is a “right”
answer, but I look forward to hearing your comments and opinions.
2 comments:
You're correct that the right answer seems to exist beyond our current means. Plumpynut or not, they appear to be tentative to embrace opportunity. I admire you for working in such a challenging and dangerous environment and reporting back with your observations - it's all very interesting.
Yes, thank you for being there; you are very brave!
I do have one thought--I think that you must listen to the men and women of Madagascar and not impose your views on them-- they are adults, afterall, and can make their own decisions. BUT, someone has to listen to the children too--especially if their own parents won't. It's exactly what we would do in the US if parents are mistreating their children. Someone has to step in and be an advocate for those who can't do it for themself. So thank you for being one of those people!!
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